Vintage Sizing & Condition Guide

How to Measure Yourself & Compare Flat Measurements

All vintage garments at The Thriftanista Closet are measured laid flat on a clean surface, then doubled where applicable (chest, waist, hips). Here's how to use them:

  1. Grab a garment that fits you well. Lay it flat on a table.
  2. Measure it the same way we do — straight across the chest just under the armholes, across the waist at its narrowest, and across the hips at their widest.
  3. Double those numbers to get the full circumference.
  4. Compare with the measurements listed in the product description. We recommend allowing 1–2 inches of ease for comfort.

Tip: Vintage sizing runs 1–3 sizes smaller than modern sizing. Always rely on measurements, not the tag size.

Understanding Vintage Labels

Labels are one of the best ways to date a garment. Here's what to look for:

  • Union Labels (ILGWU, ACWA, AFGWA): Indicate US-made garments, often from the 1930s–1980s. The specific union and font style help narrow the decade.
  • "Made in USA" without a union label: Generally post-1971 when labeling laws changed.
  • Country of origin labels: Required in the US after 1971. "Made in Hong Kong," "Made in Japan," etc. can pinpoint an era.
  • RN/WPL numbers: A registered number on the label. Higher numbers generally indicate a later date. RN numbers replaced WPL numbers around 1959.
  • Care instruction labels: Mandated by the FTC in 1971. If there's no care label, the piece is likely pre-1972.
  • Font & logo style: Serif fonts, script lettering, and Art Deco typography often signal pre-1960s pieces.

Fabric & Construction Clues

  • Metal zippers: Common pre-1960s; nylon zippers became standard in the 1960s–70s.
  • Chain stitching vs. lock stitching: Chain stitching (one thread, unravels easily) is often older.
  • French seams & bound seams: Higher construction quality typical of 1940s–60s garments.
  • Natural fibers (wool, silk, cotton, rayon): Dominant pre-1960s. Polyester blends surged in the 1970s.
  • Deadstock: New-old-stock fabric or garments that were never worn or sold — often still have original tags.

Condition Grades — What They Mean

Every item includes a condition note in the product description. Here's our grading scale:

  • Excellent / Mint: No visible flaws, wear, or alterations. May be deadstock or gently worn once.
  • Very Good: Minimal signs of wear; may have very light fading or tiny imperfections not visible when worn.
  • Good: Normal vintage wear — slight fading, minor pilling, or small marks. All noted in the description.
  • Fair / Wearable: Noticeable wear, repairs, or quirks that add character. Fully disclosed and priced accordingly.
  • Display / Parts Only: Too fragile or damaged to wear regularly. Great for art, costume, or display.

Condition notes always appear under the "Condition & Details" section in each product listing. Photos show any notable flaws up close.

Era Glossary

  • Antique: 100+ years old (pre-1920s).
  • True Vintage: 20–100 years old. At The Thriftanista Closet, we use this for pieces from the 1920s–1990s.
  • Y2K / Late 90s–Early 2000s: 1995–2005. Characterized by low-rise silhouettes, logo prints, and stretch fabrics.
  • Retro: New items made to look vintage in style — not actually old.
  • Deadstock: Unused vintage merchandise that was never sold. Often still has original hang tags.
  • NWT (New With Tags): Deadstock item still carrying its original retail tag.
  • NWOT (New Without Tags): Unworn but tags removed.
  • Mod (1960s): Bold geometric prints, mini hemlines, shift silhouettes.
  • Disco Era (1970s): Wide lapels, flared trousers, wrap dresses, synthetic fabrics.
  • Power Dressing (1980s): Shoulder pads, bold colors, oversized blazers.
  • Grunge / Minimalism (1990s): Slip dresses, flannel, oversized knits, neutral palettes.

Care & Cleaning Tips

  • Always spot test any cleaning product on an inside seam before applying to the fabric.
  • Hand wash or dry clean most vintage pieces — especially pre-1970s natural fibers.
  • Never wring vintage knits or delicate fabrics. Roll in a towel and lay flat to dry.
  • Steam, don't iron directly on embellishments, prints, or velvet.
  • Store folded or on padded hangers away from direct sunlight to prevent fading.

Still have questions? Reach out before purchasing — we're happy to take additional measurements or photos on request. Every piece is one of a kind, and we want you to love it.